Dryer vent hose how long

UL-listed transition hoses meet the following criteria:. Connectors may be required to properly attach a dryer vent hose to a dryer. Most dryer vent hoses will include a connector or clamps, while others may not. The dryer vent path may also play a role in determining which dryer vent hose is best for your laundry room. Look for the shortest path possible with the fewest number of turns. Longer paths and multiple turns in the hose can increase the risk of lint getting trapped, creating a potential fire hazard.

If your path requires turns, consider choosing a semi-rigid dryer vent hose and using elbow connectors to ensure smooth turns that will be less likely to trap lint than a sagging flexible hose.

Finally, consider how easy or difficult the dryer vent installation will be with each option. Many dryer vent hoses come with screw-on clamps to secure the hose to the dryer and the other ductwork. Others feature snap-on connectors that may simplify the process even further. Read on to discover some of the best dryer vent hoses for tight spaces, according to the shopping considerations outlined above.

The Dundas Jafine dryer vent hose is made from a flexible and durable four-ply aluminum foil laminate. This heavy-duty material is long lasting and fire resistant. A corrosion-resistant wire helix gives the dryer vent hose its structure and shape and allows for easy positioning and routing in a laundry room. The wire helix also helps to ensure an airtight seal with the dryer. This dryer vent hose is UL listed and suitable for use with both gas and electric dryers.

Two clamps are included to connect the hose to the dryer and the vent leaving the house. This flexible dryer vent hose from iPower is an economically priced choice to consider. The hose has a 4-foot diameter with an 8-foot length to accommodate the venting needs of many in-home dryers. A pair of 4-inch metal clamps are included with this dryer vent hose to allow for simple installation. The dryer vent hose boasts a thermal endurance range of 0 to degrees Fahrenheit.

A corrosion-resistant wire helix adds stability and reinforcement for enhanced performance and longevity. The AC Infinity aluminum dryer vent hose offers a long length of 25 feet that can be shortened as needed. It also has a 4-inch diameter to allow for a secure fit on most dryers. Two steel duct clamps are included with the hose.

This dryer vent features a unique four-layer design for enhanced durability and resistance against tears. It boasts flame-resistant aluminum foil construction with a smooth interior for optimal airflow. The dryer vent also has a spiral steel wire integrated into its design for added support and easier installation. An automatic pressure switch starts the fan up when it detects the dryer is running.

Besides cleaning out caked-on lint from dryer vent lines, Dryer Vent Wizard of Wisconsin will also install and reroute dryer vent lines for maximum efficiency and safety. If your dryer vent is more than 25 feet long, twisting and turning on its way to the exhaust vent, contact a Dryer Vent Wizard near you. For property managers and condo associations, call Return to News.

Vith - "Where a closet is designed for the installation of a clothes dryer, an opening having an area of not less than square inches 0. One sentence has little to do with the other, except that they both have to do with dryers. The air that is forced through a 4" duct has a velocity. The passive hole in the wall needs to have a larger cubic inch measurement than the forced air hole per all mechanical codes to move the same amount of air.

Otherwise, the forced air vent will try to draw makeup air from unintentional places like gaps in the building envelope or cracks under the walls. This in turn promotes mold growth at the unintended cracks, and provides a negative pressure that can draw radon out of the ground, just to name a few problems.

The CFM is determined by the velocity, not just area, which is determined by the size of the fan and how much negative pressure is in the room, and back pressure in the duct. That is why every dryer listed in the comparison chart has different allowable duct lengths. JDS, I dont think Vith was responding to anything to do with the condensing dryer, just the general part of "if you are planning on having the dryer in a closet and not in a room, it will mean keeping the doors to the closet open the whole time the dryer is going.

You are right the two sentences are separate, so throw on a 10x10 grille and call it good to make code happy. A bit overkill for a 4" duct but Everyone's happy. LOL at myself, I was thinking 6" duct. The free area through louvers grills and screens shall be used in calculating the size of the opening required to provide the free area specified. I think this subject has been taken as far as it can since the OP isn't willing to post plans and elevations.

I plan on doing yearly vent cleanouts, and I already planned to do most of my summertime drying outdoors on clotheslines -- hanging a pulley system off the bedroom end of the deck over to a tree or to a pole. Don't worry, neighbors won't be able to see it! The only 90 degree bend in the vent should be where the vent exits the dryer and goes into the wall behind it.

But this reminds me -- should I have the vent enter the wall directly behind, or angle up to a place close to the ceiling, and then enter between the wall studs there?

That bend would still be very easy to access, more so than the one behind the heavy unit PS, there are so many things to keep track of, but this one is dang serious -- fortunately I'm now retired as of last week, and so no more mind-numbing 11 hour workdays with some weekends tossed in I'll get full details when I go back up this weekend.

Read the manufacturer's installation instructions for the dryer and add the equivalent length for the duct bends. Above a certain equivalent length you might need a booster fan like the ones made by Fantech. A booster fan would go as close to the exterior termination as possible and might even be on the outside of the house.

These keep the bends and kinks to a minimum, which keeps the lint moving to the outside. Perhaps your builder could build something like this that goes from the floor to a little ways above the dryer. Put a door on the part above the dryer for looks. Lily'smom, dryer vents carry out moisture. It would not be very cordial to great your guests with an icy porch in the winter.

We don't know if the house is in Florida or Alaska. We don't know how many stories it has. We don't know why the shorter distances to the sides of the house are not possible or why the duct can't rise above the front porch roof.

In short, we only know there is a vented dryer, a front porch, a basement and that 2 unacceptable dryer exhaust duct locations have been proposed. That leaves a condensing dryer as the only reasonable alternative but Nic seems to have lost interest and the thread drags on. I haven't lost interest : - was just waiting until I got some more info from the builder.

If I am ok with it they will vent to the front porch, but we haven't discussed the exact spot yet. Attached is the floor plan - it's not real clear, but the covered porch runs the full length of the front. The dryer will be installed on the shared wall with the entry way closet. That's not a bad idea - the house is on a couple of acres - so no restrictions or neighbors to worry about. If you're on a couple of acres why not push the garage back so then the dryer can vent out the side.

This has me concerned as it looks like we will have a fairly long run either up and out the roof, or out through the garage by the service door. I think up is the better option.

Above the garage is an unfinished bonus room. We have a wraparound porch so our dryer vent goes down and out the base of the porch i. Ours vents off the side porch though, would having it in the front bother you? I still do not see the reason the vent cannot go out the side of the house, according to your floor plan it should be easily do-able. Heck, if its concrete wall they have to go through they can get a core bit and drill a hole.

It's not clear on the floor plan, but the wall that runs to the right of the laundry room is the garage. That garage wall also extends the width of the front porch. There is a great room behind the garage connected to the dining room so we can't shift the garage.

There is a great deal of experience and expertise on this forum. Rather than eliminating possibilities and providing incomplete drawings, give us all of the information and let us determine what is possible. That's the way problems are solved on design teams. A straight run through the garage might allow the duct to be cleaned from the exterior with a standard chimney brush and sectional rods. The dryer might move to the wall shared with the garage, in fact, IMO that corner of the house could use a redesign.

Presumably there is a second floor. If the second floor extends to the front wall, the duct might rise up and discharge above the porch roof. It is not clear on the edited plan what is to the right of the porch but if it is the wall of the garage that might be the shortest route. I'll share my experience with a long dryer run.

Our dryer is in a laundry closet underneath the stairs smack dab in the very middle of the house. When we moved in, the run was approximately 30 feet to the front of the house and had six yes, 6!!!

It went up, around, over, under. My husband shortened it by 12 feet and got rid of two of the turns and vented it to the porch instead of the front of the garage. I walk by the vent everyday and don't even notice it, even when it's running. It's still a fire hazard though, and we take it apart at the elbows and clean it often. It's a big production to do this because of the lack of access to it, but you would be amazed at the amount of lint that collects in a very short period of time.

Next house, the dryer is up against an outside wall and will vent directly out. I'm thinking less than a foot of run. Suru, your original duct "equivalent straight length" was more than 60 ft. It's a wonder that your clothes ever got dry or that the installation was approved by a building official. If the duct was accessible enough to clean, you might have been able to add a booster fan near the discharge with an indicator light at the dryer and a fan that would turn off when the exhaust air was too hot.

You probably still need one. The duct run doesn't need to be less than a foot with no turns. Mine is 30 years old with probably an equivalent length of 25 ft. I check it every 10 years and have never found any lint in it.

The most important source of information about the installation of a dryer exhaust came with the dryer. I didn't know something like that existed so I'm definitely going to look into that. This is a track home that we moved into when it was 11 years old and that was how the vent was installed. I really don't know how it passed inspection and I assume all the other houses in the neighborhood like mine have the same set up.

Anyway we will be living in this house for at least 8 more months so I think it will be worth it to get that fan. We cut out the drywall in our garage so we have access to the duct, so we should be able to install it. Then maybe I can finally patch the drywall This dumb dryer vent is always a concern to me. When we found out how crazy the run was I was told to never leave the house when the dryer is going because it could easily catch fire.

It works much better since my husband shortened it, however, the last time we cleaned the run, we still pulled out a 3 foot long chunk of solid lint that had backed-up at one of the elbows. We check it at least twice a year and that is usually the case. Lesson learned: Go with a shorter run if at all possible. If ductwork is exposed in the garage it must be of a certain gauge of steel. A booster fan should be as close as possible to the exterior discharge.